Link to Owner Dr. Robert B. Pamplin Jr.

FONT

MORE STORIES


Woolen blankets or Karen car coats? How you think about Pendleton might be about to change

PMG: JOSEPH GALLIVAN - Bob Christnacht, the EVP of Sales and Marketing at Pendleton, says taking the apparel back in house will allow them to control the brand better and try out new technical fabrics while keeping Pendleton's deisgns prominent, usually as linings and accents.

After re-acquiring its outerwear license from Item House, Inc. of Tacoma, Washington, woolen blanket maker, Pendleton, is forming its own Outerwear Division, making more coats and rainwear.

Officially known as Pendleton Woolen Mills, the Pendleton brand means different things in indifferent places. In California, it is known for the plaid shirts ($135) favored by surfers and the Beach Boys (who first called themselves the Pendletones, until they were told to cease and desist) as well as L.A. influencers such as Snoop Dogg.

On the East Coast, Pendleton is known for women's career dressing. After World War II, men's small size Pendleton shirts started selling rapidly. The company realized that women liked them as work jackets. They extended into a line of pantsuits for the white-collar crowd, although that business has been in decline for two decades.

In the Pacific Northwest, the brand is primarily known for its heavy woolen blankets ($300), the first product it made on its founding in 1863, and also for men's sweaters (think The Big Lebowski).

COURTESY: PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS - New rainwear includes this lined jacket. The company is experimenting with coated fabrics and rain resistent wool.

Maren

The brand now aims to be relatable to Gen Xers and Millennials. They've put product on singers Justin Timberlake, Post Malone, Ryan Heard and Maren Morris. Pendleton Dry Goods is their take on workwear, competing again with the sudden fashionability of brands such as Carhartt, Dickies and Wrangler.

But Pendleton has also been selling nylon puffa jackets and Gore-Tex style rainwear for almost two decades. The garments were designed and manufactured under license by Item House at their factory in Tacoma since 1999.

The core Item House team, about 10 employees, will remain in Tacoma, Washington, as a Pendleton Woolen Mills satellite office.

Pendleton has a flagship store downtown near Nordstrom, an outlet store (mostly fabric by the yard) on 99 East near Milwaukie, and a homewares store in Old Town on Northwest Broadway, above which is its office with 200 staff.

Storytime

Every brand needs a story; whether it's Nike's waffle iron beginnings or Jordan's airborne super-heroics, the consumer needs some way to bond with the commodity in the shopping cart. Pendleton's Portland office houses executives, sales staff and designers and includes a mini-museum of the brand. It was here in a conference room, one wall lined with samples on display to retail buyers who fly in from around the world, that Bob Christnacht, the EVP of Sales and Marketing, laid out an origin myth of Pendleton that would rival Jared Diamond's "Guns, Germs and Steel."

"When Pendleton got started, it was...really focused on the Native American community market where a blanket is a sign of honoring and protection of warmth, and blankets have been part of the culture trading since Europeans came over here," said Christnacht.

COURTESY: PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS - Bags on sale at the Pendleton outlet mall in Southeast Portland.  Accessories are big business, and in taking back its apparel line from Item House, Pendleton hopes to incorporate more of the new coated fabrics into its other lines, such as accessories, to expand the brand while keeping it consistent.

The natives found three things that were far superior to their own goods when trading with European settlers.

"One was the iron knife because it kept a blade sharper than a stone tool. The second was the iron cooking pot because you now could boil water and make a stew, which really gave the women who were preparing meals hours of freedom to do other things. And the third was the wool trade blanket because wool will keep you warm when it's wet, and when it dries, it doesn't dry stiff like buckskin. So, the wool blanket became part of the Native American culture from the late 1500s all the way up through today."

Pendleton flourished by selling wool blankets to the Native American customers,

who kept or traded the blankets. Pendleton created new patterns based on the color and design preferences of Native Americans.

COURTESY: INSTAGRAM - Pendleton aims to be relatable to Gen Xers and Millennials. They've put product on singers Justin Timberlake, Post Malone (pictured), and country artists Ryan Heard and Maren Morris.

The company now works with many Native American designers each year and contributes to Native charities such as the American Indian College Fund. However, its initial success came from creating thick blankets that function more as robes and shawls and are still the high watermark of stylish cabin or Airbnb.

"I tell our (sales) team, we're storytellers first and product people second. The story's got to be authentic. Everyone wants authenticity. And that's been us for the last hundred years."

COURTESY: PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS - Bob Christnacht, the EVP of Sales and Marketing for Pendleton Woolen Mills, at the company's Portland offices in front of the Winter 2020 line of casual, rain and technical outerwear.

Technically

Christnacht pointed out that Pendleton has been in the apparel business since 1924 when they made their first shirts. They only got into "technical" outerwear in 1999 with the Item House deal.

Having two lines confused the market. The Portland-based products were sportswear based on fabrics from the mill, while Item House stuff was outerwear driven. This made it hard for women to coordinate items, which became a sales problem.

They were also expanding into breathable, waterproof fabrics (wool with a membrane), which made it more important to take back the licenses and design the outerwear themselves.

Pendleton makes pea coats, wool dusters, driving coats, and all-season raincoats. "We're in the Pacific Northwest, so we've got to 'own' rain," he added.

They also make product out of cotton and even fleece. He says they also wanted to see how the fabrics Item House were using, especially coated ones, could work in other products such as accessories. Pendleton sells a lot of accessories, such as bags, scarves and mugs, to people who want to show off the brand without the full commitment of a wool garment.

"I really felt it was important to look at other applications within other parts of our business. Some of these fabrics work with our accessories. Should we be making bags with these fabrics and find some efficiencies?"

Item house mastered the technical aspects like waterproof zippers and the down jacket. Bringing that in-house will be a chance to grow the sector.

In a statement, John Bishop, president and chief executive officer of Pendleton, wrote, "This is an investment in an important product category. We're looking forward to leveraging the expertise that our new team members have in technical fabrics and sourcing across other Pendleton lines. Our teams have been working together for years, and our cultures mesh nicely."

PMG: JOSEPH GALLIVAN - Fabric on sale at the company's outlet mall in Southeast Portland. In the Northwest Pendleton is seen as a blanket company but in California it's known for plaid shirts and back east for women's career wear.

Etsy trolls

"Everything that happens with our brand, whether it's through ourselves or through our licensees, is all vetted: The marketing, the coordination, the same brand message," said Christnacht.

Without that control, it can become a game of Telephone, with two or three people involved. "There's been a lot of challenges and time involved in making sure it stays right. So, we think that's going to be a real efficiency saver for us."

The fabrics are made in Oregon and Washington but are sent to Latin America, where labor is cheaper, to be cut and sewn into garments.

Forty-five percent of the wool they use comes from the Americas, primarily the Pacific Northwest down into California, and is used in men's wool shirts and some outerwear pieces. The balance comes from Australia and New Zealand.

The raw wool goes straight to the mills in Pendleton and Washougal and is made into cloth with no outside help.

"We're vertical: We spin, we dye, we weave it, we finish it, we cut and fold the blankets or we roll the fabric," he said.

COURTESY: PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS - Pendleton is taking its apparel line back in house to compete with other outerwear brands such as Carhartt.

Good Collaborations

Seven years ago, they did a deal with Levi's. A contractor bought rolls of fabric and sewed into the back of a Levi's jean jacket as an accent.

"Most of our collaborations work like that, where we either supply our fabric or our IP (Intellectual property) to a client, and they work on it. But even in those situations, we control the finished product as far as styling, marketing and branding goes. So, everything has to run back up through our filters to make sure it's who we want to be."

Because native pattern blankets are respected items — they are given as honorary gifts — Pendleton lawyers and designers protect the designs.

"Maybe they buried their mother in that blanket? There's a real relationship with that pattern in our native community that we're very respectful of. We're not going to allow somebody to use our fabric to make padded seat covers up for toilets, or cars, right? We really can't."

Christnacht says Pendleton also has people who spend all day online on sites such as Etsy looking for trademark infringements. It can be illegally copied patterns or the improper use of the fabric. For example, a designer can add patches to a jean jacket and say they are "using Pendleton fabric," but they can't say "this is a Pendleton jacket."

He stresses they also police their supply chain to maintain high standards of workmanship and sustainability.

"That's a key component in our world in these days, especially with all the trade, the challenges of sourcing with China, the tariffs and the unknown quality of what's going to happen down the road."

To Christnacht, sustainability includes quality.

"When you go to the antique store, you see tremendous amounts of Pendleton shirts. There's a huge market for collectability. They pass on for generations. When you talk about sustainable, it's not a 99 cent T-shirt that you bought at one of the fast fashion stores. There's a real lifespan to our products that is different than a lot of other consumer products."


What is Pendleton in 2020?

Half of Pendleton's business is home and accessories - blankets, fabric by the yard, bags, mugs - whether that's wholesale business or direct to consumer business. The other half is the apparel, and that's split evenly, half men's half women's. They sell to Nordstrom, Bloomingdale's as well as specialty stores and outdoor stores such as Boot Barn and other western stores, and National Park concessionaires.

In their own words….

Pendleton Woolen Mills is a heritage lifestyle brand and the leader in wool blankets, apparel and accessories. Founded in 1863 and located in Portland, Oregon, Pendleton weaves iconic designs in two of America's remaining woolen mills located in Pendleton, Oregon and Washougal, Washington. With six generations of family ownership, Pendleton is focused on their "Warranted to Be a Pendleton" legacy, creating quality lifestyle products with timeless classic styling. Inspiring individuals from the Pacific Northwest and beyond for over 150 years, Pendleton products are available at Pendleton stores across the US, select retailers worldwide, and on pendleton-usa.com.


Warren G.

In 1923 President Warren G. Harding came to Oregon to dedicate US Highway 30 which was the first transcontinental road paved from the east coast to the west coast. He held the final dedication outside Pendleton. The tribes wanted to give him something special so Pendleton created a pattern for what is the last blanket he ever got. He died on that trip and never made it back to Washington DC alive.


It's not just wool any more

In addition to wool, for outerwear Pendleton uses cotton (including canvas, waxed canvas, corduroy, cotton with a PU coating), polyester, waterproofed wool, nylon and other fabrics.

"…What makes the collection unique is how we combine the traditional wools with other textures and membranes and DWRs (durable water resistant) that make it fashion and functional." - Jami Medeiros Pendleton Outerwear Designer

Some materials Pendleton now uses, particularly in its outdoor apparel

Pendleton Dry Goods- featuring big sky canvas, Olympic corduroy with durable water-repellent finish and cozy range fleece and Sherpas.

Pendleton family of WPB (washable/breathable) wool - featuring cascade cloth virgin wool blend and mount hood flannel eco-friendly wool blend with waterproof breathable barriers.

Their version of Mélanges wool: 75% virgin wool / 25% nylon

Their version of knit jacquards is fireside fleece which is 55% wool / 35% poly and 10% other flexible fabric.

Pendleton Does Down - 650 fill power warmth

Pendleton rain protection - with slicker laminates and harbor cloth cotton with 5k/5k WPB (washable/breathable) membrane. [END]


Joseph Gallivan
Reporter, The Business Tribune
971-204-7874
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram
Subscribe to our E-News


You count on us to stay informed and we depend on you to fund our efforts. Quality local journalism takes time and money. Please support us to protect the future of community journalism.

Go to top
JSN Time 2 is designed by JoomlaShine.com | powered by JSN Sun Framework