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Bread and Brew: Top spots for Hanukkah noshing
New York-style bagels, pastrami, potato latkes part of holiday feast.
You're new to town, and in a panic over where to find an actual New York-style bagel in Portland.
Or maybe your neighbors invited you to a Hanukkah party and you have no idea what to bring.
Either way, Hanukkah is upon us (Dec. 24-Jan. 1). And while I loved feasting on potato latkes every year as a little girl, I can do without the hand-scrubbing and peeling of potatoes, chopping of onions, and frying in oil for hours.
It's a good thing there are a few fantastic options for latkes, bagels and Jewish deli spreads in Portland to complete your festivities. Happy noshing!
• Kenny & Zuke's Deli, 1038 S.W. Stark St. — Don't leave this place without eating their pastrami — oak-smoked in-house and piled ceiling-high on rye. And their latkes. And bialies. And challah. The list goes on. It's a one-stop shop for deli lovers here — a special Hanukkah, Christmas and New Year's menu with in-house cured, pickled and smoked meats and fish covers all the bases, with everything from deviled eggs with salmon cavier to a pot roast dinner. Come for breakfast all day, weekend brunch til 2 p.m., sandwiches, burgers, loaded bagels and even happy hour and dinner. Order to go from the holiday menu with 48 hours notice. http://www.kennyandzukes.com
• Henry Higgins Bagels, 523 N.E. 19th Ave. and 6420 S.E. Foster Road — Owner Leah Orndoff and head baker Dave Barile, a Long Islander, keep it simple, local and fresh at their bagel bakery. They make 11 New York-style boiled bagels, from garlic, salt and onion to pumpernickel, sesame seed and jalapeno, plus a few schmears and sandwiches. Their focus is on fresh, local ingredients, using Shepherd's Grain flour, Bob's Red Mill flour and seeds, and local meats and cheeses whenever possible. $13 for a baker's dozen. http://www.hhboiledbagels.com
• Kornblatt's New York Style Delicatessen, 628 N.W. 23rd Ave. — With eight kinds of Reuben sandwiches on the menu, they're not messing around. A dozen more sandwiches, many of which have special appeal for New Yorkers: chopped liver and egg salad, cold beef tongue, hoagies and French dip with au jus. They call it Jewish soul food, just the kind your grandma used to make. Kornblatt's boils their bagels daily, and flies their fish in from the East Coast weekly. They also use Thumann's Deli meats, shipped weekly from the East Coast as well as Hebrew National salami and all-beef hot dogs. $15 for a dozen bagels.
• Bowery Bagels, 310 N.W. Broadway Ave. — This homegrown Portland spot boasts certified kosher New York-style bagels in a cozy, white, subway-tiled bakery in Old Town. They've got all the classics, plus Portland-inspired sandwiches like the Francis Pettygrove, with roast pork loin, warm apple compote, stone-ground mustard, brie and red leaf lettuce. You can now find Bowery Bagels at local grocery stores, which can freeze for up to six months. And the best part — delivery is available, through Portland Pedal Power. How much more Portland does it get than to order your bagel by bike? $16 for a baker's dozen. http://www.bowerybagels.com
• Kenny & Zukes Bagelworks, 2376 N.W. Thurman St. — Find many of the same sandwiches here as at the deli, but the focus at Bagelworks is all about the bagels. Rolled by hand with local flours and ingredients, they're proofed for 36 hours, boiled with malt and sugar and dusted in seeds and toppings like salt, poppy, sesame and garlic before being baked in small batches in their steam-injected oven for a firm crust and chewy center. Keep it classic with your choice of cream cheese spread and Nova lox, their gravlax or house-made whitefish spread. $15.50 for a dozen. http://www.kennyandzukes.com/bagelworks